Another Oslo for Mum: a longline Seamwork Oslo Cardigan

Just popping by with a quick post today, as this is my third Oslo Cardigan to hit the blog in the last year. This time, though, I’ve gone and made a longline Seamwork Oslo. Go me! I’m modelling it in the pictures, but it’s now with Mum. She’s a similar size to me at the shoulders, which is what matters with a pattern like this 🙂

I made this with a ribbed grey sweater knit (affiliate link) from Minerva, which I paid for with my own money for a change 🙂 It’s a medium weight with a nice drape, and is still in stock in five colours if you’re interested. What I loved about this fabric was it behaved really nicely when sewing up, and the ribbed and marled yarn gives more interest and depth than a regular plain sweater knit. Plus it’s really soft against your skin! It’s not super warm so not suitable for winter woolies, unless you layer it up well. On the plus side, that should make it something Mum can wear for most of the year here in the UK.

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The Zebra Dress – sewing the Sew Over It Heather Dress

Oh look, here I am blogging my second take on the Sew Over It Heather Dress, and it’s a 2021 make. How recent is that? And I didn’t get any of the fabric from Minerva. I don’t even recognise myself any more! Don’t worry, though, I have plenty of catching up still to do. I just felt like sharing something snuggly and weather appropriate rather than a pair of shorts 🙂

Sew Over It Heather Dress in zebra jacquard jersey

I had my first go at the Heather Dress back in 2017 and at the time I wasn’t all that sure I liked how it turned out. However, I got used to the more sporty, colourful look and my Stylebook wardrobe app tells me I’ve worn it 44 times since then. Not too bad, I suppose, considering I spent some of that time pregnant and then too large to fit back into it.

I’ve always wanted to have another try at it with a more classic black contrast and dark patterned fabric combination like Lisa Comfort models in the sample pictures on the Sew Over It site. I bought this gorgeous zebra jacquard knit from Fabric Godmother over a year ago (sadly no longer in stock) using a gift voucher I was given for my birthday. The black ponte I bought from a local fabric shop is a bit thinner than the jacquard, but I thought that would probably make the dress a bit more wearable. We don’t tend to get that much really cold weather here in Somerset, although this last week has been an exception. Brrrr!

Sew Over It Heather Dress in zebra jacquard jersey

Incidentally, I just discovered that the local fabric shop I used, Steve Bane Fabrics in Frome, has recently closed down for good. Thank you very f8*cking much, Covid. I was looking forward to getting back to doing some fabric shopping in person when the lockdown ends. I guess I’ll just have to travel to Bristol or Bath to be able to fondle fabric lovingly before I buy.

Still, buying online can work out amazingly well at times, and that was definitely the case with this zebra ponte which really exceeded my expectations. It’s super snuggly and pretty thick, but not unwieldy. Fabric Godmother didn’t give any indication of the fibre content but I’m guessing it’s a polyester/viscose/elastane blend, based on my previous experience with pontes. It’s a lovely quality at any rate.

Sewing up the pattern was relatively straightforward as I’d figured out a few changes to make the first time around. It’s much simpler to put the sleeves in flat and I used a different neckband technique–from my old favourite Gertie Sews Vintage Casual (affiliate link)–which results in a flatter, neater finish. I also trimmed the shoulders by 1cm on each side as I’m pretty narrow shouldered.

My only hiccup when sewing it up was when I misread the instructions and clipped the wrong section at the pocket top. Hopefully that won’t be a problem as I overlocked all along the clipped seam which should help it to stay together, but if necessary I’ll put a few hand stitches in there to reinforce it.

Sew Over It Heather Dress in zebra jacquard jersey

Now for the elephant in the room: sizing. Last time I made this up I was a bit slimmer and fit into the 10 at the bust and 12 at the hips, but cut a 10 as the internet said it ran a little large. I’m still wearing that size ten dress, but I’m trying to be honest with myself and sew for the size I am now, rather than the size I might possibly return to at some point in the future.

So, this time my measurements (full bust 38″, high bust 37″, waist 31″, hips 42.5″) suggested I should cut a 12 at the bust and 14 at the waist and hips. I decided to go with that. Ideally I would have cut a 12 at the waist too as there’s quite a bit of ease there, but I couldn’t wrap my head around grading that with all the panels and pockets. It was simpler to grade between further up. I suppose I could have risked cutting a straight size 12 but after reading this informative blog post about swayback adjustments I realised that my problems with fabric pooling at my back might be more down to me not allowing enough ease over my bum and hips. I’m actually pretty pleased with how a larger size has eliminated most, if not all of the fabric pooling:

Sew Over It Heather Dress in zebra jacquard jersey

Okay, it’s not perfect but it’s definitely good enough for me. I would have liked to take in a bit more fabric at the princess seams but after trying several basted fittings with different amounts taken in at the side and back seams, I opted for a very small amount of slimming down. This was no more than 2cm total taken in on any one seam – probably about 7cm in total – as more than this resulted in lots of drag lines at the sides above the pockets. I wonder if this was partly because the black ponte was less beefy than the zebra. Perhaps it would have been more successful if both fabrics were the same weight.

Sew Over It Heather Dress in zebra jacquard jersey

You can still see some drag lines in the photo above along with something strange going on at the back of the arm, but I can live with it. Something I’m still wondering about is whether to peg the skirt a little by taking it in a few inches at the bottom. I’m not sure I’ll bother but it’s possible I’ll give it a try next time my machines are threaded up with black.

Anyway, with all that pointing out of drag lines and possible future alterations you might be thinking I’m not happy with my finished Sew Over It Heather Dress, but the truth is I love it! It’s definitely a bit of a looser fit than I’m used to but there’s enough shape still there to suit me. I cut it a bit shorter (around 2″) as I thought that looked better with the more roomy fit.

The things I particularly love about this Heather dress are the pockets (such a clever design feature) and the zebra fabric. It’s one hundred percent me and I feel fabulous in it. It’s also really cosy on these cold, dreary lockdown winter days. I’ve been wearing it three times a week since I finished it. Yes, it does get washed sometimes. Honest!

My only regret is that I didn’t order more of this gorgeous fabric. I could so see myself in a cardigan made out of it!

The deets

Pattern: Sew Over It Heather Dress (pdf only)

Size: 12 bust grading to 14 for waist and hips

Fabric: Zebra Jacquard Jersey from Fabric Godmother (no longer in stock) and black ponte from local fabric shop

Modifications: shortened hem by 5cm

Costing: 

  • Pattern: £6.01 (originally paid £6 on sale plus £6.02 2x A0 printing, but this is the second use so I halved that total)
  • Fabric: £12.00 for zebra ponte (but only really paid £1.69 myself) and £7.50 for black ponte.
  • Notions: £0.00
  • Total: £25.51 (or £15.20 depending on how you want to count that gift voucher)

Either way, it’s a reasonable price for a dress I love and will wear loads!

On the Sewing Table

I’m currently working on the toile for my Butterick B5526 shirt, by which I mean I’ve stitched it together, realised it was definitely too small, let it out a bit and then realised it needs more substantial work. I’ve let out the front princess seams and pinned in the fabric needed to make it work.

Top row: the size 12 sewn with no alterations. Bottom row, after adding 2cm each side seam and letting out front princess seams. Definitely fitting better now!

It would definitely be easier to pick a larger size in the first place, but I bought this now out of print pattern years ago when I was a bit slimmer, and the largest pattern size in the envelope is a 12. My current measurements dictate I should go for somewhere between a 14 and 18, but I thought I might get away with it as I know Butterick include a lot of ease and I wanted a close fit. Alas, that wasn’t to be.

Luckily I have a copy of the The Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting (affiliate link) which gives great info about altering princess seams, and really clear visuals. It’s going to be a bit technical but I’m rather looking forward to doing a proper pattern adjustment rather than just fudging it. I can see this shirt being one I make over and over again, so it’s worth getting it right.

As one pattern on the go is never enough, I reckon I might have a go at finishing off my red corduroy Jenny trousers over next week’s half term holiday. These were originally intended to check the fit of the Jenny Overalls I made, but which ended up too low on the hips. I’m thinking an extra wide waistband could be in order!

Next week on the blog I’ll be sharing another very recent, seasonally appropriate make: another Oslo cardigan for my mum, extended into a longline version. Here’s a sneak peek of me modelling it. See you then!

Anna x

Disclaimer: some of the products linked above use affiliate links, meaning if you follow the link and make a purchase I will receive a small referral fee (at no added cost to you). Any extra income to help fund my sewing habit is greatly appreciated, but rest assured I only recommend products I love and think you might find useful too 🙂

The Ex-skirt Grainline Scout Tee

Oh dear, this is one of my Top Five failures from 2020, but I think it’s worth sharing the bad as well as the good, and I’ve definitely learnt something sewing this Grainline Scout Tee up!

Grainline Scout tee in black rayon challis

This is my second attempt at a Grainline Scout Tee. The first, in a rather beefy double gauze got some wear the first summer I made it, but has now been turned into a pair of shorts (not yet blogged, but they’re coming!). I thought I’d have another go in a more drapey fabric and see if it gave a less boxy end result (spoiler: it did, but not enough for my liking).

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The Wolf Boy PJs – Ottobre Autumn 2011

I’m back sharing another relatively recent Minerva Make. If you count September 2020 as recent, that is! This is another kids PJ make, and you can see the sets I made for Lauren here and Daisy here. This time it’s Gabriel’s turn, and again I made a raglan top and jogger style bottoms using patterns from Ottobre Autumn 2011 (4/2011)

Boys PJs in wolf motif jacquard jersey using patterns from Ottobre Autumn 2011 (4/2011)

You can find the full post over on Minerva’s site here (affiliate link) where I rave a bit about the fabric. It was sent to me in return for a 500+ word post there with 6+ photos. There is no obligation to post here or to be anything but honest about my experience with the fabric. However, I was seriously impressed with these fabrics so I’m just going to gush a bit more.

First up, this jacquard jersey (affiliate link) is incredibly snuggly and an absolute dream to sew with. It’s more like a french terry in terms of warmth. Gabriel absolutely loves it and he chose the motif. I’ll admit, wolves aren’t really my thing and the whole motif looks a bit Game of Thrones, but Gabriel says it reminds him of Minecraft wolves. Doesn’t look anything like a Minecraft wolf but there we go. The workings of a six-year-old’s mind are a mystery.

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The Fashionista Gilet – sewing a faux fur vest

This project has been a long time coming. An embarrassingly long time. But it’s here now and looking fabulous, so let’s celebrate the completion of my self-drafted faux fur vest/gilet. I’m so pleased that the finished garment lives up to the vision I had in my head!

Fantasy Faux fur vest

The main fabric for my faux fur vest was sent to me by Minerva in exchange for a 500+ word review post with 6+ photos over on their site. There is no obligation to post here, but I wanted to. You can find the main review of the gilet/vest (it’s a gilet to me, but I know to most of the English speaking world it’s probably a vest!) here, and a separate post about sewing with long pile faux fur here (both affiliate links). I have to say a big thank you to Minerva here for trusting me with such a fabulously expensive and luxurious fabric (affiliate link). At £83.99 a metre this is definitely the most expensive fabric I’ve ever sewn with (although the sequin fabric I used here wasn’t far behind), and not something I’d ever have paid for myself. That said, I reckon it’s worth every penny as it’s so soft, plush and beautiful. It definitely feels top quality.

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The Happy Camper PJs, using patterns from Ottobre Winter 2019 and 2011

Yes, it’s Tuesday so that must mean it’s time for another set of kids nightwear! This time it’s little Lauren’s turn (I blogged some for Gabriel here and Daisy here), and she got a set of PJs made out this awesome campervan jersey. I used patterns from Ottobre Winter 2019 and Winter 2011 issues. Isn’t she just adorable in them?!

Campervan print girls PJs using Ottobre Winter 2019 and Winter 2011 patterns
Lauren and Seal, her favourite cuddly toy!

This is one of my Minerva makes, made with fabric supplied by them in return for a 500+ word fabric review with 6+ photos on their site. There is no obligation to post here. You can find the main Minerva write up here: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1059889

The top was actually billed as a PJ top in Ottobre Winter 2011 (the Toy Dog PJ top, apparently), and the bottoms were just leggings in a larger size with a cuff added. I used the Basic Look Leggings from Ottobre Winter 2019, which are a really good fit on Lauren in the 98 size (a whole size larger than her measurements dictate).

Lauren absolutely loves her PJs and wants to wear them all the time. She’s even worn them on the school run a couple of times as I’ve been unable to persuade her out of them in time! I think part of the reason she loves them so much is the cuteness of the print (who doesn’t love a classic campervan?!) but also it’s down to how soft the fabric is. Honestly, I’m not saying it because I was sent it free: it really is one of the snuggliest, softest jerseys I’ve ever felt. It’s super quality and I would love to have jersey like this in solids or stripes for my own clothes. Minerva sell it in two more gender neutral colourways too, if you’re interested.

On the Sewing Table

I’m currently about to start working on my Heather Dress, and hope to have it finished by the weekend. It probably would already be finished if I hadn’t made myself tidy my sewing area and deal with some of my mending/alterations pile this weekend just gone. Is it just me or does the mending pile grow when you’re not looking?! Anyway, I figured if I can get into a routine of doing one or two mending or alteration projects between every new sewing project then I should be able to power through it all and have a weight off my mind. Some stuff has been in there for YEARS. A lot of it could probably be thrown in the fabric recycling pile, to be honest.

This weekend I returned to use a pair of leggings and a sweatshirt for Daisy, a skirt and a dress for Lauren, and finally a pair of knickers for me. No, seriously. I darned a rip in some knickers. I really am thrifty!

I’ll be back on Friday with the grand reveal of my amazing faux fur gilet. This project has been a year in the making, and I’m so thrilled to finally have it finished with some great photos to share!

Ciao for now,

Anna x

MakeNine 2021

Okay, I said I’d be posting a summer make if I didn’t have my Faux fur gilet pics yet (I don’t), but then I remembered that January is an ideal time to think about plans for the year. So let’s have a think about MakeNine 2021!

I’ve been doing MakeNine for a few years now with varying degrees of success (see 2019, 2018, 2017), but even if I don’t make much from the list (life/pandemics happen, after all) it still focuses my mind. Here’s the final grid for 2020’s plans:

I made three out of the nine–the Stella Dress, the Jenny Overalls and the Oslo Cardigan–the last of which I ended up gifting to my sister as it just didn’t suit me.

MakeNine 2021

And here’s the grid for this year:

MakeNine 2021

As you might notice, four of these are repeats from 2020. I still really want to make the Butterick B5526 shirt, the McCalls raincoat (I have the patterns for both in my stash) and an underwired bra (possibly the Cloth Habit Harriet). The Sew Over It Heather Dress is already cut out and ready to sew, so I’m confident that one will be made this year. You can find out more about my plans for each in this post: http://annajosews.com/my-make-nine-plans-2019-results-and-ideas-for-2020/

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The Starry PJs – Frankie tee and Stella Joggers from Tilly’s Stretch book

This is another recent PJ make for one of my kids (they’ve had a set each this winter). This was Daisy’s turn, and as she’s now adult sized she got to choose patterns from Tilly Walnes’ Stretch book: the Frankie tee and Stella joggers. With a few little adaptations they make excellent pyjamas!

Starry Jersey PJs using Frankie Tee and Stella Joggers from Stretch book
Daisy modelling her PJs in her bedroom, complete with Lottie the cat

This was a make using fabric provided by Minerva in return for a 500+ word post on their site with 6+ photos. There was no obligation to post here, but I like keeping my own record of my makes on my site too 🙂 You can find the Minerva post here which gives more sewing details and fabric info: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1060723

While I was initially a bit disappointed to discover Daisy has now grown out of the Ottobre kids size range (they have such cute patterns!) I’ve realised this means I can make her any of my patterns now. And I have lots of patterns! Daisy does need some adjustments making to pretty much all patterns as she has the typical Downs’ Syndrome proportions of wide neck, narrow shoulders, short arms and legs and a tendency to be round in the middle. However, I’m now pretty used to what’s required, just like with the standard adaptations I make for myself, and that makes life easier.

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The Playworker Dungarees – Closet Core Jenny Overalls in leaf print canvas

I’m back sharing a very recent make (hooray for catching up a bit!) which I finished at the end of November: my first pair of Closet Core Jenny Overalls. Or dungarees as I prefer to call them. Not sure if there’s a difference, but it sounds less like something you’d don to fix a car. Here’s a pic of me modelling them with wellies on in some local woods:

Closet Core Jenny Overalls as cropped dungarees
Proof these are practical: can be worn for a super muddy winter walk (with wellies)

These were made using a fabulous digitally printed canvas supplied by Minerva in return for a post on their site (500+ words) with 6+ photos. You can find that post here, and it goes into some detail about sewing up this pattern. Minerva only supplied the fabric. All thread, notions and the pattern were purchased by me.

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The Teacher Trousers: make the Jalie Éléonore Pull-On Jeans

Happy New Year! I’ve still got a fair few makes to share from 2020 so I should be posting pretty regularly over the next few months–and hopefully all year if I get into a good habit with it. Here today is a make from August: the Jalie Éléonore Pull-On Jeans in a pretty bold dark floral cotton. Ah, summer!

Jalie Éléonore Pull-On Jeans

Oh yeah, I love these! They were made with a linen look cotton supplied by Minerva in return for a 500+ word blog post with 6+ photos on their site. You can find that post here. There’s no obligation for me to post on this blog but I wanted to anyway. I love having this as a diary of everything I’ve made. I keep a sewing journal too, but it’s great to have this as well.

Continue reading “The Teacher Trousers: make the Jalie Éléonore Pull-On Jeans”

My SewingTop5 of 2020 (aka good riddance, foul year)

Nobody needs me to tell them that 2020 didn’t turn out the way I imagined it would this time last year. I’m guessing we’re all in the same boat in that respect. Like many sewists, I found it tough to get motivated to sew for a while and I’ve been really missing the chance to get an occasional break from the kids to get stuck into a project without interruptions. My parents have been unable to do any childcare for us as Mum has a serious lung condition and none of us want to risk it. Sewing in my house with everyone home can be challenging as my sewing space is in the main living area.

I don’t want to dwell on the bad stuff, though. There have been some unexpected pleasures to be found in 2020, and I’ve mostly been pretty happy with life (having a wonderful family really helps–even if I can’t get away from them!). Anyway, to “celebrate” the year here’s my take on the SewingTop5 meme that’s doing the rounds. (I haven’t managed to blog it every year but I’ve certainly made lists and managed to post some years)

And some quick stats: I finished 19 garments in 2020. 9 were for me (1 dress, 1 apron, 3 tops, 1 pair of shorts, 1 pair of dungarees and 2 pairs of trousers) and 10 were for others (1 for Mum, 1 for my sister, Bek, 2 for Daisy, 2 for Lauren and 4 for Gabriel). These were mostly cardigans and PJs.

I’ve also, like many, made a fair few face masks for the family and some scrubs for our local NHS trust. Here I am modelling some scrubs that are clearly too small for me!

Continue reading “My SewingTop5 of 2020 (aka good riddance, foul year)”

The Tartan PJ Bottoms – a free pdf pj pattern make

Hey, I’m back sharing a make from this autumn, this time for Gabriel (who’s now 6–doesn’t time fly?!). I used a free pdf pj pattern by new to me pattern company Life Sew Savory. Umm, what’s with that awful name? Makes me think of gravy, not sewing. Anyway, the PJ bottoms are cute:

I ended up making these twice, both times using free fabric from Minerva which was supplied in return for a 500+ word post with 6+ photos over on their site. You can find the navy and red post here, and the yellow and black pair posted here. I’ve written all the details of sewing them up in those posts, but honestly, it was pretty straightforward! I’ve also gushed a bit about the fabric and I wouldn’t blame anyone for being suspicious as I was provided it in return for a review. However, Minerva don’t give any requirements for reviews to be positive, and this is absolutely beautiful quality fabric! I will definitely spend money on it again in the future when I have a suitable project in mind.

I’m less sure about promoting the free pdf pj pattern. There are obviously some great points: it’s free, there are customisation options, and it’s sized for the whole family. But I’m not convinced the drafting is the best as my inseams didn’t match in length. That could be user error, however! I’d recommend them to anyone wanting really baggy basic PJ bottoms who doesn’t want to spend anything and doesn’t mind having to true that inseam.

On the sewing table

I’m currently wrestling with some seriously hairy faux fur fabric which I received from Minerva for review some time ago. An embarrassingly long time ago, in fact. I did start making a gilet using a self drafted pattern back at the beginning of 2020, but it just looked wrong and I didn’t know how to sort it out. I’ve now come back to it with a can-do attitude (I’m trying to develop more of this as I can be my own worst enemy when it comes to getting things done) and have trimmed it down to give a narrower silhouette. With any luck I might get it finished by the end of the year as it’s actually a super simple make.

I’ll be back in a couple of days with a Top Five review of the year post. 2020 has been a year like no other, but I’m sure I can find some positive non-sewing stuff if I really wrack my brains! I’ll be sharing another make for me (some more Jalie Eleanores) on Friday too, hopefully. I have a feeling I won’t be particularly hungover this New Year’s Day!

Hope you’ve all had a lovely (if small) Christmas,

Anna x

The Sloppy Overalls (Ottobre Summer 2018) in double gauze

I’ve been meaning to share these cute little Sloppy Overalls I made for Lauren for a couple of weeks now. Finally here they are, and still seasonal if you’re lucky enough to live in the southern hemisphere 🙂 They’re from Ottobre Summer 2018 edition if you’re interested in making some yourself.

Ottobre Summer 2018 Sloppy Overalls in cotton double gauze

This is yet another of the Minerva makes I’m catching up on blogging here–I’ll be carrying on with these into the new year, that’s for sure! I received the fabric for the make in return for a 500+ word post on their site with 6+ photographs. You can find the Minerva post with lots of nerdy sewing deets here: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1055850 Continue reading “The Sloppy Overalls (Ottobre Summer 2018) in double gauze”

The Not-for-me Boucle Cardigan – sewing the Seamwork Oslo

This Seamwork Oslo cardigan is modelled by me, but the instant I finished it and tried it on I knew I wasn’t going to keep it. It’s just too… big!

Seamwork Oslo Cardigan

It’s one of my Minerva Makes using fabric gifted in return for a review with photos. You can find a full detailed write-up over with more pictures on their site here: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1056029 Continue reading “The Not-for-me Boucle Cardigan – sewing the Seamwork Oslo”

The Is-it-a-Dress Apron – making the Tessuti Cross Back Apron

Hi everyone, just popping by to share an apron I made back in the summer (hence the sunny pictures!). It’s the Tessuti cross-back Apron Pattern and it’s completely free, as well as being pretty stylish in a minimalist kinda way.

Tessuti cross back apron in Whats Cookin' retro quilting cotton

This is one of the Minerva Makes I’ve been busy uploading on their new site, meaning I was given the fabric in return for a 500+ word post with 6+ pictures on their site. You can find the full write up over there: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1053214

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The Unicorn Cold-Shoulder Top – an Ottobre 1/2019 make

I made this fabulous digital unicorn print jersey cold-shoulder top from Ottobre 1/2019 for Daisy. Check it out!

Cold Shoulder Top in Digital Print Unicorn Jersey Ottobre 1/2019

Okay, so I meant to post this yesterday but real life intervened (ill toddler meaning hardly any sleep for me). I’m not sure anyone will notice anyway, although they might now I’ve mentioned it…

It was a Minerva make (they provided fabric in return for a 500+ word post with pics on their site) and you can find the full deets of sewing it up over on my profile there: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1049199 Continue reading “The Unicorn Cold-Shoulder Top – an Ottobre 1/2019 make”